Tasting poison
NOTE: I wrote this piece some time in February, while I was living in Durham. I’ve since moved back to New York. I don’t remember…
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Where I am now
In August, I moved away from natural wine. Bringing a few suitcases stuffed with clothes, books, and a laptop, I relocated to a southern city…
Natural Wine and the Question of Perfection
Susucaru Rosso is generous to a degree you would never expect from a stranger. After screwing off the cork, the scent of raspberries rises from…
Continue reading → Natural Wine and the Question of Perfection
The Price for Surprise
Long before I first tried natural wine, my dad introduced me to the kind of wine that he loved. We liked to eat at a…
When Wine Is Out of Control
Patrick Desplats’ Vent y Tourne, a red blend of who-knows-what grapes, hails from the Loire Valley. In Loire, lots of winemakers make “field blends” by throwing whatever grapes grow in a vineyard together to see what they make of it.
The Life and Times of “Daddy Wine”
Bottled by Cascina ‘Tavjin’s Nadia Verrua, Ottavio’s mixture of extremes made for a head-turning taste and tactile experience.
Charlie Innis 